The Daydream Robe Sewing Pattern Guide

The yardage, will be noted on the pattern itself. All seam allowances are noted on the pattern pieces themselves. This pattern works great with chiffons, stretch knits, mesh, and any fabric you’d like to have a duster or cardigan out of. This is a very beginner friendly piece, and has minimal steps to complete!

Below are the written sewing instructions, and I also filmed a step by step Youtube video of the entire creation process of this robe which is on the left of this text box! When you make your Violent Delights Robe, please tag me! I would love to see what your garment looks like!!

 

Let’s familiarize ourselves with the pattern pieces!

A- neckband

B-front

C-pocket

D-sleeve

E-sleeve flounce

F-Back

G-back skirt

1. Start by cutting out your fabrics.

2. Let’s begin by working on the center back bodice. You will see there are triangle shapes at the waist line, and those are for the back darts. With the right sides facing, stitch your darts closed. Afterwards, press your darts nice and flat. You can mark your darts with pins, or with tailors chalk. You want to make sure both of them are even because they mirror each other at the center back.

3. Now we can attach the lower skirt back (piece G) pin the lower back to the top back with right sides facing. After pinning, stitch, and finish your seam accordingly. I will be using a serger to overlock the seam, but you can do a trim and zigzag, or a French seam depending on the weight of your fabric.

4. Let’s address the front Piece ( Piece B) You will see a side bust dart. Let’s close that dart up. Pin the dart together with right sides facing, and then stitch. Afterward press the dart open.

5. Now, let’s attach the front to the back, beginning with the shoulder seams. After pinning the shoulders, stitch and press open. Now finish your seam accordingly.

6. If you aren’t planning on adding in the pocket, you will close up the side seams. If you are planning on adding the pockets, you will follow the next few steps.

7. To insert the pockets, you will see marking on the pocket, and on the side front of the garment. I’m using a cotton fabric to demonstrate how the pocket should be inspected. Begin by placing one side of your pocket to the garment. The wrong side of the garment will be touching the good side of the outer garment. Match up the notches from the pocket and garment itself and pin in place. You will be sewing this square that I have marked to make the visual easier.

8. After you have seen the rectangle, you will clip at a diagonal towards the corners of the rectangle. This will allow you to turn the garment right side out.

9. Turn the stitch right side out and press. You will see this perfect cut out.

10. Now we can p;ace the other side of the pocket onto the cut out we just made. You want the right side to face out like you see in this video. Match your pocket pieces up, and pin all the way around the outside of the pocket shape, and then stitch. After stitching, finish out the seam with a zigzag or an overlock. Now pin the sides of he pocket to the garment, everything should match up. After you have pinned the pocket into place, we can attach the other side of the duster. Pin the right sides face, and hen stitch the garment sides together.this will sandwich the pocket between the outer pieces of the garment. Once we turn this right side out, you will see he small and hidden pocket opening that is now a pocket!. Press this all out, and finish the seam accordingly. Now repeat to the opposite side of the garment.

11. Let’s sew the sleeve flounce to the sleeve. Pin the right sides together, and then stitch. Afterward, press open, and finish the seam.

12. Now, lets stitch the inseam of the sleeve. Fold the sleeve in half, match the seam in the middle of the sleeve, and then pin. Stitch the sleeve inseam, and then press open. Our sleeve is now ready to insert into the duster.

13. To insert the sleeve, I find it easiest to turn the duster wrong side out, and pin my sleeve in that way. I match the inseam of the sleeve to the side seam of the duster, and pin with right sides facing. Now work your way around the arm hole pinning. Because his is on a curve, you may have to do a little wiggling with pins to situate the arm hole in. Once you have the arm hole pinned, stitch around the arm hole, and finish out accordingly.

14. Let’s work on the neck band. Begin by stitching the center back seam, and then press open. Now we will close in the ends of the band. Pin the right sides together, and then stitch the end closed. Clip the excess seam allowance, and turn it right side out and press. Now repeat his with the other side of the band. He last step is to stitch the open sides closed to make it a solid unit. Do this stitch at .25". I’m choosing to go over he raw edge with an overlock machine, but you could do a zigzag over the edge, or a pinking sheared edge.

15. Before you can attach the neck band, we need to hem he bottom seam allowance. I’m choosing to do a rolled hem. There is 1/2" seam allowance built into the hem, so if you are rolling the hem, make sure you are only rolling .25" and .25" for a total of 1/2".

16. Now that the bottom hem has been rolled, let’s attach the neck band. I think it is easiest to pin the center back seam to the center back of the neck. Now pin the ends,and make your way down the neck/ center front of the garment pinning the band to the duster. After pinning, stitch the band to the neck and center front. After sewing, press open, and top stitch the band down.

17. The last step toge garment is to hem the sleeve flounces.

18.You can add additional hook and eyed to the center front if you like them to stay closed, but I always like the flow of a long duster hanging open while wearing.

19.If you make this garment, please send me photos, I can’t wait to see.