Hello and welcome to The Martini Swimsuit Sewing Guide!

Before You Get Started

Please take note that the seam allowances on this pattern is 1/2” unless otherwise stated.

The Pattern will have all notions and cutting layout you will need.

This guide will assume you’re creating both the Outer Shell and the Lining at the same time! Just know to repeat everything for the lining even if it doesn’t say specifically to do so.

Difficulty: Beginner

Fabrics: 4 way stretch fabric for both lining and outer shell

Sharing: If you created something with a Gunnar Deatherage pattern, PLEASE give us a review, and post a photo! Gunnar loves to see your creations, and your reviews really help our little shop grow!

Glossary

RSF = Right Side Facing

RSO = Right Side Out

WSO = Wrong Side Out

Pleating = To fold fabric doubling material over itself. Here’s a tutorial if you need help. https://www.patreon.com/posts/50184974

Flatline = To secure two pieces of fabric together into one single section.

Gathering = process of bunching fabric into a pre-measured length creating fullness. Here’s a tutorial if you need help. https://www.patreon.com/posts/50168324

Zipper Tutorial = https://www.patreon.com/posts/50029964

Rolled Hem Tutorial = https://www.patreon.com/posts/new-tutorial-hem-78784340

Assembling The Bust Cups

1. Begin using Bust Cup Facing (D). Mark where dart then stitch. Repeat on both cups.

2. Using Bust Cup (E) place a gather stitch ¼” between guideline indications on the bottom. Place But Cup on top of Bust Cup Facing making sure it’s the correct size.

3. Next step will be attaching the cups into the Front Bodice (F). Pin Bust Cup (E) into the cup area on Front Bodice. Then stitch. Repeat on other side.

4. Overlock or zigzag stitch the edges.

5. Repeat above steps for lining.

Optional Underwire tutorial

6. Utilizing seam allowance around the bust cups outershell create a stitch that's slightly bigger than your underwire and stitch. Then thread through underwire. This will show from outside so take your time with this stitch. Repeat for otherside.

Assembling The Straps

7. For Thin Tie Straps: Fold in half with WSF and pin all the way down then stitch. Trim away seam allowance and pull RSO.

8. Large Tie Straps: With WSF fold in half and pin all way down leaving one side open. Trim away some of the seam allowance. Turn RSO.

2 Piece Bikini Assembly

9. Pin strap to outer shell bust cup, using guidelines on pattern piece, on both sides.

10. Pin Outershell and Lining RSF on the top and bottom, leaving the straps out to the side. Then stitch. If you have placed an underwire be careful not to hit it. 

11. Trim away seam allowance. If you are using a bust cup you’d sew it in now. Then turn RSO.

12. Using the guideline on the Back Bodice (G) pin the strap onto the Back Bodice. Then Pin outershell and lining  of Back Bodice all the way around. Then stitch.

13. Trim seam allowance and zigzag stitch or overlock.

14. Pin with RSF Back Bodice (G) to Bodice Front on the side and stitch.

Assembling The Bikini Panty

15. Pin with RSF Back Panty (K) outer shell and lining on the leg openings. Stitch. Overlock or zigzag stitch for security.

16. Optional step: Elastic

17. Pin with RSF Front Panty (J) outer shell and lining on the leg opening. Stitch. Overlock or zigzag for security.

18. Match the side seams up and then pin RSF. Stitch.

19. Insert front crotch into the back crotch area sandwiching the two. Then pin. Stitch. Turn RSO

20. Start by matching the side seams. Pin the top all the way around. Stitch ¼”. Overlock the edge or zigzag.

21. Fold under seam allowance ½” and pin. Top stitch.

One Piece Swimsuit Tutorial

22. Use the steps above to create the lining and outer shell bodice and strap.

23. Fold the Bust Cup Detail (C ) in half RSF. Pin the ends. Stitch. Turn RSO.

24. Place accent on top of the bodice. Then line up using the sewing pattern as a guide place the strap into the correct position. Then stitch.

Assembling The Back of The Bodice For The One Piece Option

25. Pin strap to back bodice. Then pin along the top and all the way around to the indication on the bottom. Stitch. When you get to the notch indication leave your needle in, turn, and sew to the edge of the fabric.

26. Cut away some of the seam allowance. Overlock or zigzag stitch. Turn RSO.

Inserting The Long Tie Straps Into The Bodice

27. Pin strap onto Back Bodice. 

28. Pin another strap onto the Bust Cup on both sides.

29. Assemble the rest of the bodice the exact way as in the above steps.

30. Place outershell and lining together. Pin the top. Then stitch. Trim away seam allowance. Overlock or zigzag stitch to finish edge.

31. With RSF match the side seams and pin together. Stitch. Repeat on other side.

Waistband

32. With RSF pin Back and Front Waistbands together. Stitch side seams.

33. Match the center front together and with RSF pin the bodice in between the outer shell and lining waistbands.

34. Overlock or zigzag edges.

Creating The Bikini With Leg Accent

35. With RSF pin back and front panty together. Stitch side seams. 

36. There is a notch on the Leg Opening Band (L). This indicates the center.

37. Line up the side seams of the outer shell and lining an Pin RSF while sandwiching the Leg Opening Band between them. Stitch. Repeat on other side.

38. Put the front crotch the back crotch area. Then pin all the way around and then stitch. Overlock or zigzag.

39. Pin from side seam to side seam all the way around on the waistband and the top of the bottoms.

40. With RSF pin the waistband to the bottoms. Make sure to match the center front and center back. Stitch.

41. Turn RSO. Add a hand tack at either end of the accent detail on the bust cups.

Assembling the Bikini Bottom With Leg Flounce

42. On both the lining and outer shell pin the side seams and crotch area with RSF.

43. Stitch the side seams and crotch area on both the lining and outer shell.

44. Insert the lining into the outer shell with RSF. Line up the side seams and pin around the top of the bikini bottom.

45. Match the seams on the leg holes and pin around each.

46. Fold Leg Opening Flounce (M) in half and pin at the seam. Stitch.

47. With RSF match the crotch seam and sandwich the leg flounce over the leg hole and pin. Stitch. Repeat to other side.

48. Flip this WSO.

Creating the Coverup Skirt

49. Along the straight edge of Skirt Ruffle (P) pin and stitch.

50. Create a gather stitch along the top. This will be gathered at the length the skirt.

52. Pin the ruffle onto the bottom of the skirt with RSF. Stitch.

53. Pin and then stitch the center back of waistband.

54. With RSF pin the waistband to the skirt. Stitch.

55. With RSF fold in half and pin the waistband over to where the skirt starts on the waistband. Then stitch. Repeat on other side.

56. Turn waistband RSO. Then fold and continue with a top stitch along the waistband.

YOUR SWIMSUIT IS READY TO WEAR!