Let’s familiarize ourselves with the pattern This pattern features 22 pieces. They are listed below. The pattern pieces say view A, or View B, and that refers to the cape or the coat. View A is the coat, and View B is the cape.

A-Front Coat

B- Front Facing -Coat

C-Front Guard- Coat

D-Front Lining- Coat

E-Back - Coat

F-Sleeve- Coat

G-Back Sleeve- Coat

H-Collar- Coat

I-Collar Stand- Coat

J-Back Guard- Coat & Cape

K-Pocket Bag- Coat

L-Welt Pocket- Coat

M-Epaulette- Coat and Cape

N-Epaulette Loop- Coat and Cape

O-Belt Loop Strip- Coat

P- Belt tie- Coat

Q-Front- Cape

R-Side Front Lining- Cape

S-Front Guard- Cape

T-Side- Cape

U-Back- Cape

V-Neck Band- Cape

1.Begin by cutting all of your pattern pieces out. Take note of each piece, and what it requires as far as lining and your main fabrics and interfacings. Some of the pattern pieces require specific cutting for the lining pieces, like the Back Lining, and Sleeve pieces, so examine each pattern piece properly. If you are planning on creating the color blocked version, you will need to do a little work to your pattern pieces before you can cut them out. I suggest cutting out all of your linings first before cutting your outer pieces, except for your facing piece which is pattern piece (B.) If you are making the color block coat, the facing piece B, will also need to be cut in half at the grey cut line in the center of the pattern.

2.If you are making the color blocked version, you will need to cut pieces (A, B, E, F, G, H, I, C, M, N, and J out of your contrasting fabric. I will be using a leather for my contrast color, but if you are using another coating style fabric, you will want to make sure you choose a fabric with a similar weight to the bottom of the coat. The weights need to match up so the coat hangs nice and even.

3.To cut the above pieces A, B, E, F, and G will need to be cut at the grey line marked around the middle of each piece. Once cut, you will need to add 1/2” seam allowance to each side. The seam allowance allows us to sew the pieces back together and the pattern be the same dimensions as before. I find it the easiest to label the bottom half of the piece so there’s no confusion. Afterward I will cut the piece in half at the grey line, and then tape each side to a blank piece of paper, I am using my scraps from cutting the pattern out. When taping, make sure there’s more than an inch between the two. After taping, I will use one of my rulers, and mark 1/2” above the line we cut at, and then connect the sides. We are just extending the piece 1/2”. After marking, I can trim the piece, and now we have the new pieces wit seam allowances for the color block coat. 

4.Now cut out all of your contrast pieces, and the rest of the pieces needed for your coat.

5.Add your fusible to the pieces needed, like the facing, collar and neck band.

6.I am overlocking around the edges of all my khaki because I want to keep the fraying to a minimum.

7.Now we will re-attach our contrast pieces to their bottom halves. With right sides facing, attach the tops to the bottoms. Afterward you will press your seams open. If you are choosing to use a leather like me, you will not be pressing with an iron, but a weight, and then gluing your seam allowance down.

8.-This is where everyone who is not choosing to color block will join us!

9.We will now sew our darts in the back piece (E, and Front Piece A.) IF you had cut your pieces for the color blocking, you will need to tape them back together, making sure to match the original lines, not the seam allowance lines. This will help you mark your darts correctly.

10.-To mark your darts, lay your pattern over your fabric. I like to use transfer paper to help me get an accurate line. I lay my transfer paper in between the paper and the fabric with the powdery side down. Then I take a rotary wheel and trace firmly over the dart lines. It will give you a nice mark. After tracing, use pins to fold the dart perfectly in half to stitch. If you are using leather, you will use your clips rather than pins.

11.Stitch your dart, and then you will be pressing the dart to one side. For the leather bit, I’m going to put a good amount of pressure on the seam, and then glue it to the one side. After adding the darts to your Back and Front pieces, you will also add the darts to the Back lining pieces. The front has a facing and it’s own lining piece which doesn’t require a dart.

12.The next step is the welt pocket. This step can feel a bit daunting, but as long as you take your time and mark everything correctly, you’ll be fine! Let’s first start by marking on both sides of our front piece. You will see this small box that looks a bit like an envelope. This is for the welt pocket. For this step I’m using a tracing paper. I want to mark on both sides of the fabric at the same time, so I am going to lay my front piece flat on the table, and insert one piece of tracing paper face up so it will transfer to the fabric and not the table. Now I am going to lay my pattern piece onto the front fabric pattern piece, and then insert another piece of transfer paper between the paper pattern and the fabric piece. Now I am going to use a rotary wheel to trace out this entire shape onto the fabric. Once you have traced the shape and removed the paper, you should see the envelope style box on both sides of the fabric. 

13.Now we will be adding some fusible interfacing to the back of the Front piece. I am using the welt pattern piece, L, to cut out my fusible. After cutting the fusible, I will then cut that in half along the center long ways. This will act as the fusible for the welt. We need fusible because it helps the pocket opening holds its shape, and reduces fraying. Iron one strip of fusible directly onto the welt box you traced onto the back side of the Front pattern piece. 

14.Now flip the fabric over, and you will then cut the center line of the box you traced. You will also cut the little y shapes at the ends. You need to make sure the “Y” shapes of the end of that center line are marked the same, and cut the same. It’s important they match to keep the shape nice and even.  

15.-Now sit the Front of the jacket aside, and grab your pocket piece (K). You need to mark the welt pocket box on both sides of the pocket piece also. Follow the same steps as before with the tracing paper, and mark that box on both sides of the pocket. After marking, place the other piece of fusible you cut onto the back of the pocket, directly onto the welt box you traced. After ironing the fusible, you will flip the pocket over, and cut out the center line, and Y shaped lines, just like on the jacket front.

16.-With right sides facing, place your pocket over the jacket front. Line up the cuts you made, They should be identical. I find it’s easiest to match the little v shaped flaps at the end first, and then I can match the sides of the slit. Now pin all the way around, securing the pocket to the front of the jacket.  After pinning, you will then stitch around the edges of the cut you made to form a rectangle. IF you are not good at eyeing this, feel free to connect the edges fo the cuts with a piece of tailors chalk, or a white colored pencil/ marker. The goal is to sew a rectangle around the cuts you made with them being the guide. Start sewing just above where you cut the Y shaped cuts, and work your way around the pocket cuts until you have sewn a rectangle.

17.-After sewing the rectangle, you will then look at the cuts you made. Make sure you have snipped right to the edge of the corners of the rectangle you sewed. This is also a good opportunity to make sure the cuts don’t extend beyond the rectangle you sewed.

18.-Now we can flip the pocket to the wrong side of the jacket. This process can be finicky, so take your time. As you work the fabric into it’s correct place, iron the edges so they are nice and flat. This will help you get the nice finished out rectangle that acts as the opening to the welt pocket.

19.-After you have pressed the welt opening, it’s time to insert the welt flap. Before we can do this, we will need to take pattern piece L, and add the fusible to the back of it. I am choosing to finish out the edges of the welt pocket because it will be exposed in the pocket, so I highly suggest a zig zag, or finished edge.  Now I will be folding my welt pocket flap in half, with the right sides facing out, and then press. Now I will sew around the edges to make this a solid piece. 

20.-Now I am going to pin my Pocket welt into the rectangle opening we just made. Take note of where the arm hole is on the jacket so you can see which way your hand will enter into the pocket, and then make sure the finished edge of your welt is positioned in a place that makes it easy for your hand to insert. You should also make sure the welt is evenly spaced out in the opening. You should feel about a quarter of an inch of your pocket welt on both sides of the welt opening once it’s placed in the rectangle opening. Now pin around the outside edges carefully.  Ensure that the finished edge of your welt isn’t overlapping with the edge of the rectangle. They should meet but not overlap.Make sure your welt doesn’t move as you are pinning. 

21.-Now we will top stitch around the outside edges of the rectangle. This is the outside of your jacket, so take your time. Make sure the corners have a nice 90 degree angle as sewing. After top stitching, press the pocket flat and beautiful.

22.-Flip the jacket front over . Now fold the pocket bag in half, making sure it’s angled the way your hand will be inserting. Pin, and stitch all around the pocket bag. Afterwards, finish that seam out. I’m choosing to overlock it. Now repeat these steps to the other side of the jacket Front.

23.-Now let’s work on assembling the rest of the trench coat. We are going to start by marking the center back piece at the  dots at the bottom.. I’m marking using my tracing paper. This will be where we create there vent. Now pin the center back together with right sides facing. We will now stitch all the way down to that stopping point, leave our needle inserted, and lift the presser foot to pivot the fabric, and sew towards the edge of the vent, stopping at the other dot we marked. This will be about 1/2” from the edge. make sure to back stitch. 

24.-We can now attach the front of the jacket to the back at the shoulder and side seams. With right sides facing attach the shoulders and side seams. After stitching press open. If you are using the leather, you will treat all seams the same was as you did when color blocking.

25.Now lets create our epaulette. A fun fact about epaulettes is that they were originally created to show rank in military, and would be used to hold maps, or telescopes. To create these, pin the right sides facing of the epaulettes, and sew around the edges leaving the bottom open. Take note that the seam allowance here is a bit smaller than our 1/2” on the rest of the coat. After stitching, trim the edges back, and then turn the epaulette right side out. I like to use a pencil, or the end of a paint brush to push the corners out nice and pointy. After turning right side out, press your epaulette. You may also choose to top stitch around the edges.  The pattern also comes with a loop to hold your epaulette down. Because I plan on utilizing buttons at the shoulders for my epaulettes, I won’t be using the loop. IF you would like to use the loops, you would fold the edges long ways to meet each other, and then fold in half again. Afterwards, you would stitch along the fold to hold it into  place.  Now let’s sit our epaulettes, and loops aside and work on the sleeves

26.If you plan on not having epaulettes, and utilizing the guard on your coat instead, now would be when you create that and sew that on! To begin, stitch the front guard for the coat (piece C and the back guard, piece J) together at the shoulder seams. With right sides facing, pin and stitch. Now. Repeat this step for the lining. After we have stitched the outer and linings together we will pin them together. With right sides facing. We will be stitching around the curves of the outside edges. After stitching, trim the seam allowance, and under stitch if you like. This is where you stitch the seam allowance towards the lining. Then you can flip right side out. Then press the guard nice and flat. You can sit this aside for now, but this will get pinned to the jacket before sewing the sleeves on. You will line up the center back neck , and pin around the neck line, and the arm holes. After we finish our sleeves in the next steps. You will sew the sleeve to the arm hole which will sandwich the guard between the coat and the sleeve and keep it in place.

27.-Let’s chat about the sleeves! The sleeves feature a faux placket, and if you aren’t familiar with a placket, this is basically meant to mimic an opening with button holes for the sleeve, and a lot of designers like to imply the placket, because a real placket is almost never necessary for function. If the placket is a bit tricky for you right now, no worries, just sew straight down the sleeve, and trim the excess seam allowance away. It will look just as cool, promise. Let’s start by pinning the right sides together of the placket side of the sleeves (pieces M and N). If you look at your pattern, you will see there is a notch at the bottom of the sleeve pattern piece that indicates the stitch stopping point. Stitch from the top of the sleeve all the way to that bottom notch. When you get to the part of the sleeve where the placket starts, leave your needle inserted, lift the presser foot, and turn the fabric so you can follow the line of the placket.

28.-Press the seam open flat and beautiful. As you can see the placket has now created a fold in the fabric, so make sure it is lined up where your seam looks continuous, and press that flat. This will help us in the next few steps. I also make sure my placket pockets are angled towards the back of the sleeves.

29.-Turn your sleeves so it is face side down. We are now going to address the flaps of the placket. We want to create finished edges that face each other here, and to do so, we will fold one side of the placket towards the top of the sleeve, and pin the side closest to the other placket. Now stitch from the fold towards the raw edge of the fabric, making sure to stop about 1/2” from the edge. This will be a short stitch. We will now repeat this step on the other side of the placket. 

30.-Now lets turn those seams right side out. As you can see, the bottom of the sleeve now wants to turn up where we have stitched, so let’s press the seam and the bottom of the sleeve seam allowance. The sleeve allowance should now be pressed towards the top of the sleeve.

31.-Now let’s do a little hand stitch to join the openings of the placket we just created. They naturally overlap about 1/2”, so let’s stitch them in place. This step will finish out our faux placket.

32.-Now we can close up the other side of our sleeve to create the full sleeve. With right sides facing, pin and stitch the inseam of the sleeve. Then press open flat and beautiful. Repeat these steps on the opposite sleeve.

33.-The next step is to sew the sleeves into the arm holes. You Will want to make sure your epaulettes pinned at the shoulder seam before sewing the sleeve in. Pin your sleeve around the arm hole, making sure to use a lot of pins around those curves to make sure they stay where you want. After pinning, stitch in place. You may want to clip your curves and then press the seam allowances toward the body of the jacket. If you are using a leather I find this to be the trickiest part to glue down, so use a lot of pins, and be careful when gluing. 

34.-If you plan on utilizing a belt, you will want to create your belt loops and sew them on before we insert our lining. You will fold one side of the belt loop in length wise towards the center, and then fold the other side in to meet it. Then press. Now fold in half again, and press again. This is the technique used to create a bias tape. Now stitch down the strip securing the two sides together. Now we can fold the ends of the belt loops 1/4” inch and press. Pin your belt loops to the trench coat at the waist line. You can use the grey cut line as a marker for the waist if you didn’t choose to color block the coat. Now that your loops are pinned to the coat, you can stitch them on.

35.-You can also take this moment to create your belt. If you cut two on the fold, you can pin them right sides facing, and stitch all the way around the edges leaving a 3-4” opening. Flip your belt right side out, and press around the edges, making sure to press the points out. Then hand stitch the opening closed. If you cut four, you will join the two pairs at the center seams, then press. You should have the two long strips now.You will then follow the steps used as those who cut 2 on the fold. 

36.-Lastly before we move onto the jacket Lining, let’s create our collar. You should haver cut two fabric pieces and one interfacing. You will have either fused the interfacing to one of the pattern pieces, or flatlined it in. Pin the collar pieces together with right sides facing, and stitch around the edges. After stitching, trim away the excess seam allowance, and then turn it right side out. Make sure to press the points of the collar out so they are nice and pointed. Then press, and top stitch around the edges. 

37.-Now lets sew the collar into the neck band. You will match the notches of the collar to the collar band to make sure it is centered, and sandwich the collar between the two neck bands. Use a lot of pins if you need the help securing it perfectly. Now start by stitching one end of the neckband closed, and leave your needle inserted, lift your presser foot, and swivel the fabric so you can sew along the edge that has the collar attached. When you get to the end of the collar band, you will also leave the needle inserted and swivel the fabric to sew the other end of the neck band closed. 

38.-After stitching, trim the excess, and turn it right side out making sure to press the points of the collar band out. After pressing you can then top stitch and sit the collar and collar band aside.

39.-Now let’s sit our jacket, and belt aside to create our lining. 

40.-Attach your fusible interfacing to piece B which is your front facing. After attaching the fusible, you will stitch The Front Facing, (piece B) to the Front Lining (piece D.) after pinning and stitching, you will press open and finish out accordingly.

41.-Now we will work on our back pieces. If you notice, piece E ( the back piece) has an additional cut line. This is to create the vent lining. You will trim the left side, or whichever side you pressed your center back vent towards on the outer coat. This cutout mimics the stitching of the outer coat, which is why we will be cutting one side. After we stitch the center back, the seam will create the same little notch shape as the outer part of the jacket vent, when you are looking at it from the inside of the coat.

42.-Now mark the dots on the center back of the lining with either chalk, or marking paper. 

43.-Lets pin the right sides facing, and start at the top of the neck, and work our way down. When you get to the first dot, leave your needle inserted, and lift the presser foot to swivel the fabric to aim it towards the next dot. Not lower the presser foot, and sew to the next dot. Now back stitch. Don’t sew all the way to the bottom of the lining! Now cut a little notch in the seam allowance where3 you created that pivot.

44.-You will press that seam open, and when you do, you’ll notice the seam has the same angle as the center back of the coat.

Now, let’s attach the center back lining to the front facing/ front lining at the shoulder and side seams. pin the right sides together, and then stitch. After stitching, you will press them open flat and beautiful. 

45.-We will now create the sleeve lining. If you notice on the sleeve pattern, there is a secondary cut line.Make sure your lining pieces don’t have the placket notches like the outside. Now let’s sew our sleeve to sleeve backs. Pin the right sides together, and then stitch and press open. 

46.-Once you have your sleeve linings fully assembled, it’s time to sew them into the sleeve hole of the lining. Pin the sleeve into the arm hole making sure the sleeve back is facing the back of the lining. This is important so the sleeve hangs and moves appropriately with the body. After pinning, stitch around the arm hole, and then finish out accordingly.

47.-Now we have our outer jacket, and our linings fully finished out, let’s begin attaching them. We are going to begin by attaching our lining vent to the outer coat vent. To do this, place your lining on top of your coat, wrong side to wrong side, almost how the lining will be inserted into the coat, and notice where the outer vent seam allowance and the lining seam allowance meet. We will be stitching the seam allowances together.  If it helps, place a pin where you stopped stitching before so you can make sure everything is lined up. Now fold the lining one direction so you can clearly see the seam allowances on one side, and pin your seam allowance from the outer coat and lining together with their right sides facing. You will stitch from the point you we left off earlier in the construction down to the hem. You want them to be super close so its nice and clean. I find it helps to insert my needle where we left off, and walk it a few stitches, then I can use the pedal to sew from that point to the hem.  After you have sewn one side, you will flip the lining over to the other side so you can stitch the other side. You will be doing the same thing to this side as you did on the other. Pin the seam allowance together with right sides facing, insert your needle at our previous stopping spot(where we stopped sewing center back), or right next to it, and then stitch from that point to the hem.

48.-Now that we have sewn the vent, let’s flip the coat inside out. You should be sewing the wrong sides of both the lining and the outer shell. 

49.-Pin the front seam to the front facing all along the front edge starting from the bottom and working your way to the top. You will then place your collar band into the neck open ing of the jacket and lining making sure to match the notch points so it is centered. The collar should be facing towards the inside of the coat. Pin across the top of the neck band, and then work your way down he other side of the coat towards the hem. After pinning, you will then stitch this all the way around. You will notice, there is a notch at the bottom front. You will start there. This will allow us to fold up the seam allowance for the bottom and to hand sew at the end.

50.-After stitching, you can trim away the excess, and then turn your trench coat right side out.  Make sure to press the points of the coat out by the collar band and the lapel area. And for the love of all things fashion and style PRESS THE FRONT OF THE COAT FLAT ha!

51.-Now that we have the outer ares of the coat taken care of, let’s work on attaching the sleeve lining to the sleeve. Turn the coat inside out, and turn under the seam allowance of the sleeve and the lining. It helps if you have dress form to make sure it is hanging correctly, but if you don’t, just add a pin at the shoulder seam to connect the sleeve and the sleeve lining so you know it is aligned perfectly.

52.-Now fold under the seam allowance of your sleeve lining, and then hand stitch around the seams to join them. Do this to both sleeves.

53.-Now let’s lay our trench coat flat.

54.-Let’s fold up the outer coat seam allowance towards the inner part of the coat, and then fold under the seam allowance. You will want to pin, and the hand sew the bottom of the coat closed.

56.The very last step is to add button holes, and the buttons to your piece to have those finishing touches. The placket we created on our sleeve was just for show, so you cans ew the buttons directly to it, closing the placket fold there.

The Cape instructions are Below!

Ok, now lets create our cape. 

For the Cape we are utilizing pieces J,N,P,Q,R,S,T,U and V.

1.Before we get into cutting for the cape, please note that there are two triangle pieces on the pattern printouts. They need to be cut out, and attached to the Cape Back, and The cape Side. They are the extensions that create the full flared pieces.

2.Add in extra pieces……….

-Lets begin by assembling the rain guards which are pieces S and J.

Stitch the front guard for the coat which is Piece S to the lining that matches. With right sides facing, pin and then stitch along the curve of this piece. Afterwards, you will trim away the seam allowance, and clip the curve. I suggest under stitching the seam allowance to the lining. Afterward, turn it right side out and press it flat. You may also want to flat line stitch at 1/4” around the edges you didn’t sew, so they don’t move. Now repeat this with the other front piece, and the back. At the end you will have three separate pieces.

3.-Now lets stitch the center back seam of our cape. With right sides facing, stitch the outer fabrics together at the center back seam. Pin, stitch, and then press open flat and beautiful. Now repeat this step with the lining.

4.-The next step is to attach the Front Cape (piece Q to the side from Lining, piece R). We will be sewing the side front lining tot he side with the smaller shoulder width. Pin the right sides facing, and then stitch from the top to the hem. Afterward press open and finish out the seam.

5.-Now pin your front guard to the outside of the front cape. This will not be the side you just sewed the side front lining to. It may help you to stitch it to the cape on the edges you didn’t finish out. If you do, stitch at 1/4”.

Now let’s attach the cape fronts to the cape back at the shoulder seams. Pin the right sides facing, outer cape back to the outer cape front. Pin and stitch in place. Afterward press open and finish out. Do this to both sides. Your guards will now be sewn in at the shoulder seams. 

6.-This step is optional, but if you planned on creating epaulettes for the cape, now would be the time to do so. Pin the epaulettes together with right sides facing, and then stitch around the edges making sure not to stitch the bottom. Now trim your seam allowance, and then turn right side out. Press those points out, and then press with an iron, Now you can create the loops if you like by pressing the edges in toward the center to meet in the middle long ways, then folding in half again, and stitching along the length. You will fold the edges under 1/4” and sew onto the shoulder of your cape. You will also pin your epaulette onto the shoulder to be sewn into the Cape side seam (almost like a sleeve). Make sure the epaulette is facing the neck area of the cape.

7.-Now let’s sew in our Cape side. If you notice, there is a notch stopping point. You will stop sewing here. When you do, make sure to backstitch. Pin your cape side into the opening, starting at the bottom back and working your way around the shoulder cap, making sure to mark with pins where to stop sewing for the slit in the front. After pinning, stitch. Now repeat this step to the other side. Make sure to press the seams.

8.-Now we can pin the shoulders of the lining front, which is where we sewed the lining side front, to the shoulders of the lining back. It’s going to feel like we’re dealing with a lot of fabric at once, but it’ll come together super quickly.

9.-After pinning and stitching the shoulders of the lining, let’s sew our Cape side linings in also. Make sure you mark where to stop stitching, just like on the outer part of the cape. These should match up. After pinning, Stitch and then press open.

10.Before we attach our cape to cape lining, let’s create the neck band. This will be piece V. It is designed to fit under the collar of the trench coat, but can be worn on its own. To create, pin the collar band piece together with right sides facing. Stitch one side, and then lift the presser foot to swivel the fabric, and then sew along the top of the next band. Keep your needle inserted at the end, and lift the presser foot again to swivel the fabric to stitch the other side of the neck band. Trim the seam allowance, and then turn the collar band right side out. Press nice and flat, and add a top stitch if you like.

11.-Let’s attach our lining to our outer cape. Turn the cape inside out, and match up points where we stopped stitching on the cape and cape lining. Place a pin through both stopping points to make sure they line up correctly. We will be stitching the seam allowances of the slit together on each side of the slit. To do so, we will carefully insert our needle close, but not directly onto the stopping point in the slit stitch from earlier. Make sure to do a little back stitch, and then stitch to the hem. You will also do this to the other side of the seam allowance of the slit. 

12.-After finishing one slit, you will do the other also. 

13.-The next step is to pin  along the bottom of the cape. It is important to note that the cape front folds in half to create the front edge. The pattern notes (CENTER FRONT) and shows you where that fold happens. You will need to leave a 7-8” gap in the center back of the cape when sewing. This is to turn the cape right side out. When you are pinning the neck area, you will need to insert the collar band. We will be sandwiching it there so make sure it is facing inward.

14.Now Stitch all the way around your cape. After stitching, clip your corners, and clip the edges of the seam allowance but he slits. After clipping, turn your cape right side out through the opening we left at the bottom. Press your points out, and then we will be pressing the edges all the way around the cape. Make sure to really press the slit area. You want that to be nice and clean.

15.-Hand stitch the opening closed at the bottom of your cape. Then give a good press.

16.-If you are planning on having your cape attach to your coat, you will want to add buttons tot he neck band of the coat, and button holes to the neck band of your cape. You could also use hook and eyes, or clasps. You will need some way to keep the two connected.

Hello, and Welcome to the Hemlock Coat and Cape pattern. This trench coat was inspired by times gone by, and is the perfect piece heading into the winter season!

-This trench coat offers an optional color blocking option, optional rain shields, a nice pointed collar, a tie for the waist that is optional, epaulettes, and the perfect amount of mystery. The cape has high slits for easy arm movements, rain guards, and a collar band that fits just under the collar band of the trench coat so they can be worn together.

This pattern would be great to pair with suiting fabrics, gaberdine, cotton twills, wool wovens, or even a heavy satin like a duchess satin if you are feeling fancy. The fabric is where your personal style and design come into play!

Below are the written sewing instructions, and I also filmed a step by step Youtube video of the entire creation process of this dress which is on the left of this text box! When you make your dress, please tag me! I would love to see what your dress looks like!!