Hello, and welcome to The Laissez Faire Sewing guide.

Things To Know

Please also take note of the seam allowances on this pattern is 1/2” unless otherwise stated.

Fabrics to use: Jersey, lightweight stretch, spandex, chiffon, charmeuse, any flown fabrics.

Difficulty: beginner to intermediate

The pattern will have all the notions and cutting layouts you will need.

Glossary

Right Side Facing = RSF

Right Side Out = RSO

Pants

Pants: The Front

1. Lets stitch the crotch front of the pants. Begin by placing your fabrics RSF.

2. Pin, stitch the front crotch, finish out the seam.

Pants: The Waist Band & Waist Ties

3. Cut front waist band on the fold and cut a fusible to use on the front. Then fuse the interfacing to the front of the waistband. (wrong side of fabric)

4. Create a gather stitch at the top of the front pants (if you are using a heavier fabric you can use two gather stitches to give it more strength). You'll want to evenly gather the top of the pants to the length of the waistband.

5. Place the seam of the front crotch (the one sewn for Step 1) in the center of the waistband then pin across and stitch

6. Fold the waistband in half, pin, stitch (⅜"), finish out the seam (with overlock or zigzag stitch).

7. Optional - Pant Belt Tie Construction: This will wrap around the waist and tie in the front. Cut two (trim to size). Fold RSF, pin, stitch one end closed and stitch along the edge leaving one side open. Finish seams. Trim away seam allowance. Turn right side out making sure to push the corners out. Repeat to other belt tie.

8. Optional - Pant Belt Tie Attachment: Taking the side that is not closed, pin raw edges of the tie and waist together on each side of waist. Set this aside

Pants: The Back

9. Start by pinning RSF and stitching the back pant crotch and finish.

10. On the pattern piece there is a marking to fold the fabric (3 ¼") all the way across making the waist. Then top stitch. Use a smaller stitch because elastic will be inserted inside of the waistband.

11. Measure elastic from one side around your back to the other side to get the appropriate size for your fit. Then insert the elastic. When inserting the elastic make sure to pin the elastic in the center of the waistband. The extra fabric should fall naturally into pleats. ¼" stitch on the edges to keep the elastic in place.

Pants: The Pockets

12. There should be 4 pocket pieces cut. The pockets will be hidden. There are two indicators on the pattern pocket pattern piece and pants pattern piece to line up for correct placement of the pocket.

13. Pin one of the pocket pieces to side of the pants. From the notches you will sew a rectangle. Sew ½" from one notch to the other, creating a rectangle.

14. Clip the corners at an angle. Then flip and push corners out.

15. With RSF line up the other pocket piece and pin the pocket all the way around the curved edge. When pinning make sure to not pin to the pant.

16. Stitch all the way around, overlock/finish edge. Do not sew to pants!

17. Pin pocket to the side seam of the pant. Then repeat to other side.

Pants: Assembling The Pants

18. With RSF pin the side seam of the back to the side seam to the front. Only pin the seam allowance of your hidden pockets and that they are lined up. Sew side seam. You can do a backstitch for extra security at the top/bottom of the pockets and the waistband. Overlock/Zigzag side seams of the pant.

19. Repeat to other side

20. With RSF match the center seams first, then inseams. Starting from one side of the leg stitch to the center crotch area and then down the other side of the leg. Finish seam with overlock/zigzag.

21. Try your pants on now. Mark the length of the pants (there is extra built in) giving yourself the ½" seam allowance. Cut at desired length plus seam allowance. Then roll hem ½" and stitch.

The Jacket

1. Before you begin constructing the jacket finish out the edges (with your preferred method: overlock/zigzag/etc.) on every single piece. Be careful when doing so because you don't want to cut off any of the pattern that doesn't have to go.

Jacket: The Back

2. RSF both pieces of the back pieces together mark where your slit openings will be on the center back. Then from that point, pin all the way up to the neck.

3. Starting at the neck stitch all the way down to your mark for the slit of the center back. When you get to the slit marking backstitch for security.

Jacket: The Front Pieces

4. There is a square extension of the pattern on the top of the front pattern piece. Sew these first. With RSF, pin and stitch across the top connecting the two pieces.

5. With the newly sewn piece layed out, fold the fabric in half using the square piece (that you just stitched) as a starting point, now pin together. One side will be a bit longer.

6. Using the small seam from the squares we stitch together as the centerpoint, pin the front to the back at the center back seam with RSF. pinonly the neck are first. Now stitch, starting and stopping ½" from the edges. Now using the ½" we left, pin the shoulder areas of the front and back pieces. This will be a slight pivot from the neck area. After pinning, stitch together.

7. Finish out the seam by trimming and zigzagging, or overlocking.

Jacket: The Sleeves

8. With RSF pin sleeve all the way around into the sleeve hole. Then stitch and finish in your preferred manner.

9. Fold the sleeve in half, and pin the inseam of the sleeve, all the way down the side of the jacket).

10. Use the slit marking on the front of the pattern piece to find where the slit opening would be and pin. The marking will indicate where you will stop stitching.

11. Starting at the end of the sleeve, stitch your way to the underarm down to the marking for the slit. Backstitch twice to secure. Repeat on the opposite side.

Jacket: Hemming

12. On the front pattern piece there is a marking at the bottom. This marking indicates how much will be folded over. With RSF fold, pin the bottom, and stitch. Repeat to the other side.

13. Flip this RSO. Carefully fold the bottom hem ½" and stitch

14. Then fold and pin ½' from the bottom hem to the apex of the slit and stitch. When you reach the top, stitch a small straight line to the other side.

15. From the apex of the slit fold ½" down to the other bottom hem, pin, then stitch.

16. For the other side bottom hem fold ½", pin, sitch, and backstitch.

17. Add ½" to your desired length for the sleeve and cut.

18. Fold hem ½" and then stitch all the way around.

19. Press everything flat and beautiful!

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