Voyage Cape Sewing Pattern Guide

Hello, and welcome to the Voyage Cape!

This is the perfect way to usher in Fall! It has major Dark Academia vibes ( or light, depending on your fabrics) I would classify this as an intermediate pattern. it’s not overly tricky, just a lot of steps. The Video is long, but we have sectioned it off into chapters if you need a little video help. otherwise, the directions are below! This fabric succeeds with heavier fabrics! Think coasting, wools, even synthetics that have some weight. If it would make a good trench coat or blazer, it would work with this!

As always I HIGHLY suggest making a cotton Muslin mock-up! You want to make sure you don’t need to make any alterations before hopping into your real fabric.

 

Please also take note of the seam allowances on this pattern is 1/2” unless otherwise stated.

Now, let’s familiarize ourselves with the pattern! 

A - Upper Collar

B - Under Collar

C - Front Facing

D - Front

E - Side Front

F - Pocket Flap

G - Chest Pocket

H - Back Waist Strap

I - Pocket Lining

J - Side Pocket Facing

K - Back

L - Side Front Lining

M - Slit Facing

N - Back Neck Facing

O - Back Lining

  1. Let’s begin by working on the front piece. We are going to attach our pocket in our pocket flaps to the front of the cape. You should have cut four pocket flaps, and we will be stitching two of the four together to create a flap, and then repeating with the other to create two flaps. Start by pinning with right-side spacing and then stitching the sides down to the point and up to the other side, making sure to leave the top open. Now repeat this with the other piece. Now we can trim the seam allowance, turn it right side out, and press. If you plan on adding button holes to the pocket flap, now would be a good time to do so.

2. The next step is to iron under the seam allowance of the chest pocket all the way around. After doing so, we will stitch the top seem allowance down. After you have stitched both pocket seam allowances down on the top, we can pin the pockets to the front of the jacket on each side, and then so around the outside edges securing the pocket to the Cape. The pattern piece has a placement for the pocket, so you can use this as a guide. Now we can stitch the pocket flap to the Cape. Place the flap pointed up on the Cape right above the pocket. Now stitch. Afterward, press the pocket flop down facing the bottom of the Cape. You can do a security stitch here to keep the pocket flat facing down. Now repeat this to the other side of the front.

3.OK so now we are going to work on attaching our pocket and pocket lining in between the front piece and the side front piece. Everything does have notches to help you line it up. So, to begin, we are going to start by assembling the pocket lining with the side pocket facing. There are two notches at the bottom and one notch at the top and they will lineup. You should have cut four pieces for the pocket and four pieces for the pocket facing. I’m using the same exact fabric as the outside of the Cape because I want to make sure that everything that is showing looks beautiful. For my pocket lining I’m actually going to be using a satin. I’m just going to pin the right side facing to the pocket facing and I’m going to pin all the way down and then we are going to be stitching. Seam allowance here is half of an inch just so we are aware and we’re going to do this to all four pocket and pocket-facing pieces

4. Now, let’s sew the pocket onto the front piece. You will see notches to line up the pocket-facing portion and the front. Line them up and pin.

We will be sewing a small half-inch rectangle from notch to notch. After you have stitched the rectangle, clip in towards the corner at a diagonal, and then clip the other corner at a diagonal also. Afterward, you will flip the pocket piece inside out, and press everything flat. You will now see a finished rectangle edge.

Now we will pin the other side of the pocket to the pocket we just stitched in. With the right side facing pin the two pocket pieces together around the curved edge, and then stitch. Do not stitch them to the outside fabric, just the pocket-to-pocket pieces. Afterward, you can overlock the edge. You should now have a finished pocket edge and a side seam that match up.

5. Now let's attach the side front to the front. You will see notches that align them. With right side facing pin and side front to the front overlapping where we just sewed the pocket, and then stitch in place. Afterward, press open.


6. Now it’s time to work on our back piece. before we do the center back seam, we are going to work on the shoulder dart. So essentially, we are creating the curve here of the shoulder with the dart. In order to do this, if it’s helpful to mark on the pattern where the dart is, use tracing paper. Start by pinching the dart at the bottom and placing a pin then work your way up and maneuver the fabric around to match the curve. Take your time and use lots of pins. Once you have pinned the darts that are curved we are going to stitch this.

After doing both sides, we can stitch the center back of the back pieces together. Afterward, press open. Now repeat this with the lining.

7. Now that our back lining is assembled, and we’ve done our shoulder seams, it’s time to add in our neck facing. Pin with the right side facing the neck facing to the back pieces, and then we are going to stitch and afterwords clip the curve and press open.

8. Let’s address the back waste tab you should’ve cut four of these. The tabs will be sewn into the side seams of the front of the Cape and they run behind your back and we can add buttonholes/buttons, or hook and eyes. The goal of these is to go behind the back to secure the front of the cape to fit your body. So you’re going to take two of them and pin them together with the right side facing and stitch the sides and top together leaving the bottom open to turn right side out. After stitching, trim the seam allowance and then turn it right side out and press.

9. Okay so now we are going to attach our upper collar to our under collar. We are going to pin them with the right sides facing and then stitch all around the top and the sides, leaving the bottom open so that we can turn it right side out. After you stitch this you are going to trim the seam allowance and turn it right side out and press. Now it is important to note that the seam allowance here is 3/8 of an inch so when you’re sewing it make sure to be aware of that.

10. Now it is time to attach the front to the back pieces of the outer cape. Pin the front to the back at the shoulder seam, rounding around the sleeve cap edge, and stopping at the notch on the front. Use a lot of pens, and really make sure the fabric is laying flat. Now repeat this to the other side.

11. Now let’s address the darts on the side front lining. Stitch the darts closed and then press open.

12.Now, pin the side front lining to the front piece. With the right side facing pin the side front lining to the front piece. Afterward, stitch and then press open. Now repeat to the other side

13. Now it’s time to sew the shoulder seam of the Front lining to the back lining. We’re going to treat it the same way as we did the outside. With right sides facing, pin together and then stitch.

14. Now add the slit facing to the back pieces of the slit. Stitch directly onto the lining. You might want to zigzag or Overlock these pieces first.

15. At this point, the Cape and the Cape lining should be joined, and now we need to work on the hem and the neckline so that we can start finishing it out. We will begin by stitching the back lining to the back at the bottom hem. Pin the right sides facing all around, making sure to leave a 9 to 10-inch gap in the center back hem that will not be stitched. This will be when we turn the garment right side out. after stitching the back, we will then stitch the front bottom hem. Fold the side front lining over and match the side seams of the front piece. We will basically be folding the whole front piece in half, to create a nice clean line that will be the front of the Cape. After pinning stitch the front, and then repeat to the other side

16. The next step is to pin the collar to the neckline. Make sure to match up the side back seams of the lining in the outer garment because that’s going to help you keep everything correct. The collar should not go all the way to the edge on both sides you should have about 3/4 of an inch towards the edge extra.

After sandwiching the collar in between the neckline in the lining neckline pin and stitch all the way across. Afterwords trim your seam allowance

17. Now it’s time to stitch closed the slit openings. We are going to pin the right sides facing and align the stopping points of the arm area. Now we’re going to pin down each side with the right side facing all the way to the bottom. The back pieces will have a little bit of overhang from the front, and that’s good because that will act as a facing once sewn. After pinning stitch both sides of the slit and repeat to the other side.

18. After you have stitched both of the slits closed, we can now turn the garment right side out and then press everything nice and flat.


19. Once you have pressed everything clean, we can hand stitch the bottom opening closed. Afterward, press.

20.Now add your buttonholes to the front of the garment, and add your buttons. Don’t forget to add a closure to the back waist tabs.

 



























 
 
 
 
 
 
 

pocket placement is marked on pattern

mark pocket placement

stitch top of pocket.

mark on fabric where pocket goes.

you can use a rotary wheel and transfer paper to mark.

stitch pocket onto front.

attach pocket flap

let’s assemble the side pocket.

attach pocket to pocket ket facing.

pocket facing, and front have marking for lining up.

pin pocket to front

mark where to stitch and the stitch.

snip seam allowance.

turn pocket towards back.

press flat, and repeat on other side.

pin other side of pocket to the pocket.

join around the edges.

attach side front to front.

stitch dart on back piece.

 

stitch center back seam

attach neck facing to back lining.

stitch back waist tabs together.

 

turn right side out.

attach upper and under collar

 

stitch shoulder seams of outer garment.

where to stop stitching for arm opening.

stitch side front lining dart.

attach side front lining to front.

join shoulder seams of lining.

stitch slit facing to back lining pieces.

pin waist tabs to the side front.

they should face inward so they are sewn correctly.

join the lining and outer fabrics at bottom hem, leaving a 8-10” gap for turning right side out.

pin collar into neck opening.

stitch collar into neck opening.

trim seam allowance.

fold front and front lining in half to create the center front. pin and stitch the bottom hem.

the lining will be a little shorter in the back. this will pull the outer fabric up towards the lining.

pin the slits closed, starting from the top and working your way towards the hem on both sides.

now stitch the slits closed.

turn the garment rightside out

press garment.

hand stitch garment closed at the bottom hem.

add closure to waist tabs.

add button holes.

attach buttons.