Let's Get Started!
1. Familiarize yourself with the pattern pieces and the indicated markings such as grainlines, notches, and labels.You will have the following pattern pieces:
-A. Neck Tie
-B. Front Bodice
-C. Back Bodice
-D. Sleeve
-E. Skirt
-F. Skirt Ruffle.
This dress features a halter-style bodice with off-shoulder long sleeves, and a gathered skirt with elastic waist, and two back neckline options. View A has a raised neckline that gathers into the neck tie. View B has a low back neckline that is gathered across the back. Both views are pictured above and in the video
.2. Cut your pattern pieces in the fabric. A cutting layout guide is included with your pattern to help you with placement on the fabric.
3. Whether you are using a sheer fabric or an opaque fabric, I suggest "flat lining" the bodice (pieces B&C) with a lining layer. If you choose to not have a lining with just an opaque layer, you can skip this step.
4. After flat lining, finish off the edges with an overlock, or a zigzag stitch to prevent the fabric from fraying.
5. With right side together, stitch side seams of the bodice together (B and C). Afterwards, press them "flat and beautiful".
6. Mark the wrong side of your sleeve where your elastic will go. The sleeve has an elastic band at the top, bicep, and wrist. You only need to mark the bicep and wrist, as the top edge folds down to create its own casing... (we will get to that shortly). To mark, I like to use a tailor's chalk and ruler so I can make sure my elastic is sewn in a super straight line.
7. Determine the length of the elastic needed for the bicep and wrist. Make sure to add an additional 1"for the seam allowance.
8. While stretching the elastic taught over the marked lines, stitch the elastic directly to the wrong side of the sleeve. Repeat this step for the bicep and wrist on both sleeves.
9. Now let's talk about the casing. VIEW A: Withright-side facing down, press 1/4" towards the wrong side of the fabric, and press. Now fold another 1/2" and press. Pin in place and topstitch towards the edge.
9A-Measure and cut the elastic for the top edge of the sleeve. To determine the length, measure from the front armpit crease near the side-neck level and around your arm and stopping at the back armpit crease.
9B-Using a turner or safety pin, thread your elastic through your casing. Pin the elastic at both ends so it doesn't get lost inside thecasing, and then stitch close to the edge to hold it in place.
9C-With right sides together, stitch the inseams of the sleeve together. Make sure to match your elastics at the inseams for a cleaner look. After stitching, press your seam "Flat and beautiful", and finish the seam accordingly.
9D-Match underarm seams of the bodice and sleeve, and pin with right sides facing together. Now stitch from the top of the front sleeve armhole under the arm and continuing to the back sleeve armhole.
9E-Clip the curve on the underarm, press away from the sleeve, and topstitch
.9F-(VIEW B) After adding elastic to the bicep and wrist area, we will stitch the inseams with right sides together. Make sure to match your elastics for a cleaner look. After stitching, press your seam "Flat and beautiful", and finish the seam accordingly.
9G-Match the underarm seams of the bodice and sleeve, and pin with right sides facing together. Now, stitch ONLY from the underarm seam to the top of the Back Sleeve/Bodice.
9H-Stitch the Back Bodice pieces together with right sides facing. Press "flat and beautiful".
9I-With the right-side facing down, press 1/4" towards the wrong side of the fabric. Now fold another 1/2" and press. Pin in place, and topstitch towards the edge. This will run from the sleeve around the back neckline, and to the other sleeve.
9J-Using a turner or safety pin, thread your elastic through your casing. Pin the elastic at both ends so it doesn't get lost inside the casing, and then stitch close to the edge to hold it in place.9K-Stitch from underarm towards the top of the front of the sleeve/ bodice.
10. Clip the curve on the underarm, press away from the sleeve, and topstitch.
11. For the front casing, with the bodice laying face down, fold ½-inch towards the wrong side of fabric, press, now fold again at 1". Press and pin in place. Now stitch. This is our front casing.
12. (VIEW A) Mark where back slit starts, and stitch the back bodice pieces with right sides together.Press open flat and beautiful. Topstitch from top of neck down to where the slit stops and back to the top opposite side. Then create casings for both back pieces by following the steps in step 11.
13. Hem the bottom of the sleeves. Set your bodice aside for the moment.
14. Sew the top of the skirt (pattern piece E) together by joining side seams with right sides together, and stitching. Press open and finish the seam accordingly. Repeat this for the skirt lining pieces.
15. Sew the skirt ruffle pieces together at side seams with right sides together. Press and finish the seams accordingly.
16. Gather the skirt ruffle to match the circumference of the bottom of the skirt (pattern piece E).
17. Pin the ruffle to the bottom of skirt piece E, with right sides together. Stitch, and finish out accordingly.
18. Hem the Skirt Ruffle.
19. Pin the waist of the bodice to the waist of the skirt (pattern piece E) with right sides together. Align the side seams for reference.
20. Pin the skirt lining to the inside of the bodice. We are sandwiching the bodice between the skirt lining and the outer skirt
.21. Stitch the outer skirt, bodice, and lining together at the waist seam. Finish the edges accordingly
.22. (optional) Attach elastic to the seam allowanceof the waist. Make sure to evenly space out. I demonstrate an easy technique in my video. (14:10)
23. Hem the lining.
24. Fold the neck tie ( Pattern Piece A) in half along the length with right sides together and stitch. Now turn the neck tie inside out,and press flat. Hand stitch the neck tie openings closed
25. VIEW A: Using a turner or safety pin, thread the finished neck tie through the casings starting from the center back neckline, through the front, and through other side of the back neckline. VIEW B: Note that the neck tie will only thread through the front neckline.
26. Put your dress on, tie your neck tie in a pretty bow, and ENJOY! I bet you look FAB!
The Belladonna Dress Sewing Pattern Instructions
I wanted to kick off my patterns by choosing a design that got lots of buzz when I originally posted it! You may recognize this style from the "Tim Burton" inspired dress I made on Tiktok & instagram! This silhouette is beautifully flattering in all sizes and body shapes. We tested the fit of every size from 00 to 32 based on current body & size data studies. Companies like Amazon have used the same 3D body scan technology to develop a realistic, modern size chart. It was very important to me that my sewing patterns and designs be size inclusive for everyone.
Below are the written sewing instructions, and I also filmed a step by
step Youtube video of the entire creation process of this dress! This dress is beginner friendly with no fussy zippers or buttons.
I would love to see your versions of this dress, so please use our #GDBelladonnapattern hashtag when you post!!
