Hello and welcome to The Odyssey Coat Sewing Guide!

Before You Get Started

Please take note that the seam allowances on this pattern is 1/2” unless otherwise stated.

The Pattern will have all notions and cutting layout you will need.

This guide will assume you’re creating both the Outer Shell and the Lining at the same time! Just know to repeat everything for the lining even if it doesn’t say specifically to do so.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Fabrics: Wool or a fabric that has weight, wovens, Suiting and Coating fabrics

Sharing: If you created something with a Gunnar Deatherage pattern, PLEASE give us a review, and post a photo! Gunnar loves to see your creations, and your reviews really help our little shop grow!

Glossary

RSF = Right Side Facing

RSO = Right Side Out

WSO = Wrong Side Out

Finish Seam = overlock, trim away, zigzag, pinking shear them, or however you finish out seams.

Pleating = To fold fabric doubling material over itself. Here’s a tutorial if you need help. https://www.patreon.com/posts/50184974

Flatline = To secure two pieces of fabric together into one single section.

Gathering = process of bunching fabric into a pre-measured length creating fullness. Here’s a tutorial if you need help. https://www.patreon.com/posts/50168324

Zipper Tutorial = https://www.patreon.com/posts/50029964

Rolled Hem Tutorial = https://www.patreon.com/posts/new-tutorial-hem-78784340

This pattern tutorial already assumes you’ve cut out all the pattern pieces. Remember Front Skirt (F) and Back Skirt (G) use the same pattern piece. 

Gunnar Tip: Make sure to press your seams flat and beautiful. Find the correct setting on your iron and use a little steam if you need to.

Outershell

1. Begin by marking the dart on Back Bodice (K) with tracing paper or your preferred method on both sides. Pin and stitch.

2. RSF pin and stitch the center back of Back Bodice (K).

3. Mark the center point of the Back Yoke (J) and align it with the center seam of the Back Bodice and pin with RSF. Pin the rest of the curve and stitch.

4. Find the center back of the top edge of Back Waistband (M) and with RSF pin and stitch.

5. RSF pin and stitch the center seam of Back Skirt (G).

6. Attach the Back Waistband to the top of the skirt with RSF. Pin and stitch.

7. On the Side Front Bodice (D) mark the dart on both pieces. Pin and stitch. Press the dart while it’s down. It shouldn’t stick out.

8. RSF pin Front Waistband (E) to the bottom of Side-Front Bodice. Stitch.

9. Mark on the good side of the skirt fabric the pocket placement, the dot. The notch point on the skirt and Pocket (I) will match up. Pin pocket to skirt. Stitch from the notch to the dot and all the way over at ½”.

10. Trim away half of the seam allowance and snip towards the edge of the pocket stitch (don't cut through it). Turn the pocket towards the wrong side. Press flat and beautiful.

11. With RSF place the other part of the pocket onto the pocket and pin the pocket around the outside edge. Stitch.

12. With RSF pin the side bodice and waistband to the skirt. Stitch.

13. RSF pin the Front to the Front Side. Stitch.

14. RSF place one side of the front onto the back and match the side seams up then pin. Pin the shoulder. Stitch. Be careful around the pocket (you could use a narrow zipper foot if needed). Repeat to other side.

15. On Sleeve (H) mark the “Back of the Arm Hole”, center point on top of sleeve, and dots of “Ease-Stitch Between Dots” with tailors chalk. 

16. Place a gather stitch at a ¼”  on the marking for “Ease-Stitch Between Dots”. 

17. Fold the sleeve in half, pin and stitch all the way down. Flip RSO

18. Match up side seams of sleeves and pin up to the beginning of the gather stitch. What should be left is where you placed the gather stitch. Gather the sleeve into the rest of the arm hole and pin making sure the top of the sleeve matches up to the shoulder seam. Stitch.

19. With tailors chalk mark the center back on the yolk and the dots on Front (C ) on the garment. The Undercollar (B) and Collar also have matching dots, mark the dots on both of these pieces. 

20. Match up the center back seam of the Undercollar (B) to the center back seam of the jacket. Pin aligning the dots. Stitch from the one side to the other.

21. Now you’re going to have to pivot the undercollar so the outer dots line up. (see photo) You’ll need to make a small diagonal cut to alleviate some of the fabric tension. Stitch. Repeat to other side.

Lining

(Since the steps are similar to constructing the outer shell a lot will be simplified.)

22. Use Back Bodice (L) to mark the darts. Stitch darts and center back seam.

23. Attach the back waistband to the bottom of the Back Bodice just like you did on the outer shell.

24. Stitch the Center Back Seam of the Back Skirt Lining.

25. Stitch the Back Skirt Lining to the Back Waistband Lining.

26. On Side Front Bodice (D) mark darts and stitch.

27. Attach the Front Waistband to the bottom of Side Front Bodice.

28. Attach the Front Skirt Lining to the Front Skirt Waistband.

29. Attach the front to the garment. Stitch from the top to the bottom with RSF.

30. Now that the Back Lining and the Side Front lining assembled stitch at the side seam with RSF

31. Fold the hem ½”, iron, and stitch.

32. Attach the front piece to the side front bodice with RSF.  Match at the top and stitch all the way down. 

33.Flip with RSF and stitch the shoulder seams.

34. The lining of the sleeves will be the same. Create the ease stitch. Fold in half and stitch.

35. Attach Collar to the neckline. It’ll be the same as creating on the outer shell.

Constructing The Coat

36. Line of the top edge of the lapelle. The two seams from Step 21 need to match up perfectly. You’ll start at this point and stitch your way across to the other side.

37. Trim away half the collar seam allowance.

38. Pin the lapelle and all the way down. When you get to the bottom you’ll stitch at 1” ending exactly where you stitched at Step 36. Repeat on other side.

39. Trim away half the seam allowance making sure to not cut through what you just stitched.

40. Flip RSO

41. Pin the jacket hem up 1”. Press it to make stitching this easier. Roll the lining and topstitch.

42. On to the sleeve, roll the lining of the sleeve up and hand stitch all the way around.

43. The last step is attaching your buttons. Place your buttons evenly create button holes on the opposite side of the jacket that align.

Congrats, You’ve completed the Odyssey Coat!