Hello and welcome to The Persephone Dress Sewing Guide!

The instructions are below!

Before You Get Started

Please take note that the seam allowances on this pattern is 1/2” unless otherwise stated.

The Pattern will have all notions and cutting layout you will need.

Difficulty: Easy to Intermediate

Fabrics To Use: this pattern requires stretch fabric, 4-way is best.The way that the grain lines are laid out on this pattern are specific, so please take note.

Gunnar Tips:

If a pattern has an optional cut line, label the two separate pieces so its easier to use at a later date.

Glossary

RSF = Right Side Facing

RSO = Right Side Out

WSO = Wrong Side Out

Pleating = To fold fabric doubling material over itself. Here’s a tutorial if you need help. https://www.patreon.com/posts/50184974

Flatline = To secure two pieces of fabric together into one single section.

Gathering = process of bunching fabric into a pre-measured length creating fullness. Here’s a tutorial if you need help. https://www.patreon.com/posts/50168324

Zipper Tutorial = https://www.patreon.com/posts/50029964

Let’s analyze the front and back pieces (A & B). There are a lot of different cut lines on these pieces. Whatever you choose will determine what the shape of the silhouette will look like.

To create the one shoulder option, you’ll cut both A & B along the optional cut line for one-shoulder neckline. If you are making the shorter dress or the option that has the circle skirt you’ll be utilizing the cut line that says optional cut line for short dress on both A & B. If you are choosing to make these as separate pieces and not a dress you’ll use the optional cut line on the waist of both A & B. You’ll want to decide which version(s) you want to create before continuing.

No matter what version you are making, create a gather stitch on the shoulder (which is the wide part on the left). There is an optional cut line here that runs through the shoulder. If you decide to use this optional line, you’ll still create a gather stitch here. The only thing that would change is how much you would be gathering.

If you are creating the version of the top that has two sleeves and two shoulders you’ll gather the longer side of the shoulder to match the other side.

If you are creating the asymmetrical version you’ll also create a gather stitch but you’ll be be gathering to your desired width.

1. Create a gather stitch on the top shoulder and on the long side. Gather the shoulder to about half the length. Tie a knot on the end of the string to secure it. Gather the long side to about half as well. Tie knot to secure end. (see images) Make sure your gathers are evenly spaced out.

2. Attach the front to the back, pin the shoulder seams with RSF, stitch the shoulders together and finish out. If you don't have a serger, trim the edge, and then use a zigzag stitch.

3. With RSF pin the sleeves into the arm holes. Start with the outside edges and work your way in. Stitch then overlock/zigzag.

4. SHORT VERSION ONLY: Hem the bottom of A & B before you sew. Fold the hem ¼” and top stitch it down. This will show from the front so make sure you’re using a thread that matches.

The right side of the dress has some interesting seam allowance happening. It sticks out like a notch. This side will be turned into a casing where drawstrings can be placed to adjust the length of the dress.

5. Before you can create the casing, finish out the seams of both sides of the dress. Then flip the dress inside out. Match up the underarm seams, pin, and work your way all the way up closing in the sleeves

6. Pin all the way down (where we gathered), pin the notch together, and all the way down the dress. 

7. Because there is extra seam allowance on the notch, mark where you will stitch so its easier to see.

8. Stitch the side with the notch (casing) closed. Take your time stitch the gathering making sure they’re spaced evenly.

9. Fold the notch (casing) under, pin all the way down, then top stitch (using a matching thread this will show). If your drawstring is bulky, just open up the seam and top stitch down ½” on each side. Don’t close this because you will need to feed your drawstring through.

10. Use a turner (or if you’re on a budget a safety pin works just as well) and pull the drawstring through. Leaving the edge of the drawstring level with the casing. Then pin to hold the drawstring in place. Then repeat on the other side. Stitch across the two drawstrings to secure them (this stitch will show on the front). Then gather it to the length that you want.

11. CIRCLE SKIRT ONLY: Once you have the drawstrings the length you want. Pin them at the bottom, trim, and use a security stitch at the bottom.

12. Stitch the zipper into the side seam on the other side that is not closed.

13. Once your zipper is sewn in, flip the dress WSO and stitch the rest of the side closed. You can use a zipper foot here to get really close to the zipper.

14. SHORT VERSION ONLY: Very last thing you need to do is hem the neck and the sleeves.

15. CIRCLE SKIRT ONLY: Attach the front to the back (of the circle skirt) at the side seams, pin, and stitch.

16. CIRCLE SKIRT ONLY: The center of the skirt is off center. The pattern piece does have a notch where the front and back of the skirt is to line it up. With RSF attach the skirt to the bottom hem of the dress. Pin all the way around (use as many pins as needed). Then stitch.

17. Roll over all the hems ¼” and stitch.

CONGRATULATIONS YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE PERSOPHONE DRESS! Please tag me with your creation using #GDPersophonePattern