Hello and welcome to the Star Crossed Shirt sewing pattern. This shirt can be made more than a few ways. The shirt features two collar options. One is a traditional collar with color stand, and the other is a collarless option with a tall collar stand. The sleeves can be created with a large bishop sleeve, or a more tailored fitted sleeve. The body of the shirt can be created with optional darts to fit to the waist, and we have also created a variation with bust darts for a more fitted look around the chest area if you like.

For the sample I am creating in the video, I will be creating the version with the Bishop sleeves, The collar with collar stand, and the Body option without darts or bust darts. I will show you how to create the other versions in the video though!

The yardage, will be noted on the pattern itself. All seam allowances are noted on the pattern pieces themselves. This pattern works great with chiffons, charmeuse, cottons, linens, and any fabric you’d like to have a dress Hirt out of. This is a very beginner friendly piece, and has minimal steps to complete!

Below are the written sewing instructions, and I also filmed a step by step Youtube video of the entire creation process of this robe which is on the left of this text box! When you make your Violent Delights Robe, please tag me! I would love to see what your garment looks like!!

Let’s begin by familiarizing ourselves with the pattern pieces

A- Collar (view A)

B-Collar Stand (view A)

C-Neck Band (View B)

D-Front Placket(View A and B option with Out Bust Dart)

E-Front Body (View A, B Without Bust Dart)

F-Front Placket(View A and B For Shirt With Bust Dart)

G-Front Body(view A and B Shirt WITH Bust Dart)

H-Back Body( View A and B)

I-Sleeve(View A)

J-Cuff

K-Slit Bias

L- Sleeve (view B)

1. Begin by cutting out your fabrics, and interfacings. I will be using a fusible interfacing for this video. I find that it’s easier to manipulate than sew in interfacing.If you are using a sheer fabric like me, you may need to cut out an additional backing fabric like a satin or a solid fabric, so the fusible doesn’t show beneath the sheer fabric.

2. If you are making the body option with a bust dart, or if you want to add in the optional waist darts, now is when you would do that. You will need to mark where the darts are on the fabric, and to do this, you can use a small tracing wheel, and you could also use a transfer paper if you have it. Sometimes, I will rub tailors chalk onto scrap paper and use that as transfer paper. After you have marked your darts, you will then fold the fabric with right sides facing, and stitch your darts. After stitching, press the seams flat and beautiful.

3. Now let’s join Front Body to the Back Body at the shoulder and side seams. The front body piece you use depends on whether you want the bust darts or not. For mine, I am using piece E. With right sides facing, pin and stitch the front to the back. After stitching, press your seam flat and beautiful, and then finish it accordingly. I will be using an overlock stitch, but you could easily French seam, or trim and zigzag the edges to finish out.

4. Now sit the shirt body aside. We will start working on our sleeves. You will notice that the sleeve has a small black line intended for the slit. Both sleeve styles have this. Make the cut one both sleeve pieces.

5.Now lets work on the sleeve slit, which is piece K. We will be folding the sides in towards the center, and then pressing. After folding the sides in, you will then fold it in half. This piece should be cut on the bias! After you have ironed your slit pieces, you will then carefully sandwich the slit of the sleeve into the bias tape we just made. Carefully stitch the bias tape closed, making sure that the sleeve slit is caught in between the two layers. When you get to the top of the slit, I will gently pull the slit open to create tension and make the slit more of a straight line. Carefully stitch the rest of the bias tape closed. After the bias tape is finished, im going to add a little tack to the back of the top of the bias tape so the front lays flat. You can do this stitch at an angle, and it will create a point like shape on the top of the slit binding. Now we can repeat this to the other sleeve.Next up, we will connect the inseam of the sleeve. Fold the sleeve in half, with right sides facing, and pin. Now stitch from the top to bottom. After stitching, press and finish out accordingly.

6. If you are working With the bishop sleeve (pattern Piece I) you will create a gather stitch all along the bottom of the sleeve. Make this gather stitch at 1/4” so that when it’s sewn into the cuff, you don’t see the gather stitch. Start the stitch at one side of the sleeve slit, and work your way around to the other side of the slit. Now gather the bottom of the sleeve to the dimension of the cuff. You want to make sure the gathered edge stops at 1/2” on each side of the cuff to make room for the seam allowance of the cuff. Now repeat this to the other sleeve.

7. If you are Making The sleeve that is not gathered like a bishop sleeve, you will want to address the pleats on the sleeve. There are markings at the hem that show you where to fold. Mark the lines, and the fold the fabric and secure it with a pin.

8. Let’s address the cuff. We are going to pin two of the pieces together, with right sides facing, and stitch the sides and top together, making sure to leave the bottom open. This is where we will attach the sleeve. Now trim away the seam allowance, turn the cuff rightsize out, and press it flat and beautiful.

9. Now that our cuff is finished, let’s pin the bottom of the sleeve to the sleeve cuff with right sides facing. After pinning, stitch the sleeve to the cuff.

10. Now we will fold the seam allowance into the cuff, and pin all the way around. You can either hand stitch, or top stitch the cuff closed. After closing the cuff seam allowance, the sleeve will be finished and ready to attach. Now repeat on the other side.

11. Lets stitch the sleeve into the arm hole. You will want to make sure the back of the sleeve is sewn into the back of the arm hole, so match the notches on the patterns so you can pin in accordingly. Pin sleeve into the arm hole with right sides facing. Sometimes I think its easier to turn the shirt inside out, and pin in that way. Pin the sleeve into the arm hole, and then stitch around the hole. Afterward, finish your seam accordingly. Now repeat this on the other sleeve.

12. Now that our sleeves are inserted, let’s add the front plackets. Please note that the seam allowance is 3/8”. Begin by folding the seam allowance towards the center of the placket, and pressing. Now we will fold the other side of the seam allowance to the center and press. Think of this like a large bias tape. Now fold the placket in half perfectly, and then press. We can now add the placket to the shirt front. Pin the placket to the center front, and sandwich the shirt front between the placket.. Now pin and stitch the placket to the center front. I would treat this like a top stitch, and stitch about 1/8” to .25” close to the edge. Now repeat this on the opposite side.

13. The next step is for the option that has a collar and collar stand. If you will be making the option using the collar stand (C) you will stitch the sides and top of the collar stand, just like with a collar. Afterward, clip the seam allowance, and then turn it right side out, and press it nice and flat.

14. Now lets work on the collar. With right sides facing, pin and stitch the sides and top off the collar together. After stitching, trim the excess seam allowance, and turn the collar rightsize out. Make sure to press the corners nice and pointy, and then press them flat. You can choose to top stitch the collar if you like.

15. Now we will work on the collar stand. We will be sandwiching the open side of the collar at the top of the collar stand and pinning. What this is going to do is enclose the collar into the collar stand once we stitch it.

16. After attaching the collar into the collarstand, we will now attach the collar stand to the shirt neckline. Begin by pinning right sides of the neck band to right side of the neck of the shirt. Don’t pin both sides of the neck band . We will only be sewing the outer good sides together.

17. After stitching, we will roll under the other side of the seam allowance, and pin its to the neck line. Then we will hand stitch, or top stitch the neckband in place.

18. Now that the shirt is assembled, let’s hem the bottom. I am going to be doing a rolled hem.

19. The last step is to add the snaps to the cuffs, neckband, and placket. There are markers for suggested placement. You can use snaps or buttons for this shirt.