The Star Crossed Sleeve Expansion Pack

Hello and welcome to The Sleeve tutorial!

I have been wanting to create a sleeve pack for some time now, and thought it could be fun to build it out for my star-crossed shirt pattern. While this sleeve set was created to fit my starcrossed shirt, these sleeves can be used for SO many different patterns. You’ll just want to measure the armhole of the garment you want to use a sleeve for and match the length of the sleeve cap to the garment you are fitting! below are the instructions!

Before You Get Started

 

Please take note that the seam allowances on this pattern are 1/2” unless otherwise stated.

The Pattern will have all the notions and cutting layout you will need in the provided PDF files.

THIS TUTORIAL INCLUDES THE CONSTRUCTION OF ALL OF THE SLEEVES, BUT NOT HOW TO INSERT THEM INTO THE STARCROSSED SHIRT PATTERN. FOR THAT TUTORIAL, CLICK HERE!

Difficulty: Beginner Friendly

Fabrics: WOVEN COTTONS, VOILE, SHIRTING FABRICS, CHIFFONS, SATINS. PLEASE NOTE THAT THERE ARE 6 SLEEVES IN THIS PACK, AND SOME FABRICS MAY WORK BETTER WITH SOME STYLES THAN OTHERS, WE SUGGEST DOING A TEST TO MAKE SURE YOU LOVE THE FABRIC. PAIRING.

Sharing: If you created something with a Gunnar Deatherage pattern, PLEASE give us a review, and post a photo! Gunnar loves to see your creations, and your reviews really help our little shop grow!

Glossary

RSF = Right Side Facing

RSO = Right Side Out

WSO = Wrong Side Out

Finishing a Seam = overlock, trim away, zigzag, pinking shear, or whatever your preferred method of finishing out a seam to stop fraying.

Gathering = process of bunching fabric into a pre-measured length creating fullness. Here’s a tutorial if you need help. https://www.patreon.com/posts/50168324

Rolled Hem Tutorial = https://www.patreon.com/posts/new-tutorial-hem-78784340

This pattern tutorial already assumes you’ve cut out all the pattern pieces.

Gunnar Tip: Make sure to press your seams flat and beautiful. Find the correct setting on your iron and use a little steam if you need to.

The ORION Sleeve

Step 1: Prepare for Gathering

  • Unfold your fabric and lay it flat.

  • Use Tailors Chalk or fabric marker to mark notches on both sides of the fabric. These notches will guide your gather stitching.


Step 2: Create Gather Stitch on Top of the Sleeve

  • Create a gather stitch from one notch to the other on the top sleeve. Repeat for the bottom sleeve.

  • Use a quarter-inch seam allowance for the gather stitches.

Step 3: Gather the Top Sleeve

  • Starting with the top of the overlay, Pull the threads from one end to gather the fabric to match the length of the top of the upper sleeve. now repeat this to the bottom side to match the bottom of the Upper Sleeve.

  • Knot the threads to secure the gather at the correct length.

  • Pin your overlay onto the upper sleeve, all the way around. afterward stitch at .25” around the outside edges, joining the two layers together as one.

Step 5: Gather the Middle Overlay to match the Middle Sleeve Piece.

  • Much like the top, you’ll gather the top and bottom of the middle sleeve overlay to match the length of the middle sleeve piece.

  • After gathering to the appropriate length, and tying off the knots, pin the overlay to the middle sleeve, and stitch all the way around, joining the two layers as one.


Step 6: Attach Top Sleeve to Middle Sleeve

  • With right sides facing, sew the gathered top sleeve to the middle sleeve.

  • Pin along the edge, pulling gathers down towards the inside.

  • Use a half-inch seam allowance.

Step 7: Gather Lower Sleeve Overlay to match Lower Sleeve.

  • matching the technique for the upper, and middle sleeves, you’ll gather the lower sleeve overlay to match the lower sleeve.

Step 8: Gather the Bottom Ruffle

  • Gather the ruffle to the length of the bottom of the lower sleeve.

Step 9: Attach Middle Sleeve to Bottom Sleeve

  • Repeat the process, sewing the middle sleeve to the bottom sleeve.

Step 10: Attaching the Bottom Ruffle

  • With right sides facing, pin the bottom ruffle to the bottom of the lower sleeve.

  • Sew along the edge, using a half-inch seam allowance. Finish out the seam.

  • Hem the ruffle if desired. a small rolled hem is ideal.

Step 11: Assembling the sleeve.

depending on how you are assembling, you can either follow the below directions, or you can hop over to the star-crossed shirt tutorial, and assemble the rest of the sleeve with that tutorial as a guide.

  • Fold the assembled sleeve in half, aligning seams.

  • Pin from top to bottom, ensuring gathers are pushed away to avoid catching unwanted fabric.

  • Sew along the pinned edge from top to bottom, using a half-inch seam allowance.

  • Remove pins and overlock or zigzag the seam edge.

  • Follow your pattern instructions to attach the sleeve to your shirt or desired garment.

Sewing the Vega Sleeve

Step 1: Prepare for Gathering

  • Mark notches on the overlay for gathering and pleats.

Step 2: Create Gather Stitch on Overlay

  • Create a gather stitch on both sides of the overlay from the notch to the top.

  • Pleat the fabric at the notches, forming a V-shape.

Step 3: Gather the Top of the Overlay

  • Gather the top of the overlay to match the length of the upper sleeve.

  • Pin the gathered overlay to the upper sleeve, ensuring the sides and bottom align.

Step 4: Attach Lower Sleeve to Upper Sleeve

  • With right sides facing, pin the lower sleeve to the upper sleeve.

  • Sew along the edge, using a half-inch seam allowance.

Step 5: Gather Ruffle Hem

  • Create a gather stitch at the top of the ruffle hem.

  • Gather the ruffle to match the length of the lower sleeve.

Step 6: Attach Ruffle Hem to Lower Sleeve

  • With right sides facing, pin the ruffle hem to the lower sleeve.

  • Sew along the edge, using a half-inch seam allowance.

Step 7: Fold and Pin the Sleeve

  • Fold the assembled sleeve in half, aligning seams.

  • Pin from top to bottom, ensuring gathers are pushed away to avoid catching unwanted fabric.

depending on how you are assembling, you can either follow the below directions, or you can hop over to the star-crossed shirt tutorial, and assemble the rest of the sleeve with that tutorial as a guide.

Step 8: Sew the Sleeve

  • Sew along the pinned edge from top to bottom, using a half-inch seam allowance.

  • Remove pins and overlock or zigzag the seam edge.

Step 9: Finish and Sew into Garment

  • Finish the raw edge of the sleeve and hem if desired.

  • Your Vega sleeve is now complete and ready to be sewn into your garment.

  • Follow your pattern instructions to attach the sleeve to your shirt or desired garment.


The Nova Sleeve Instructions:


Step 1: Prepare the Sleeve Opening

  • Overlock or zigzag the top of the sleeve. If you don't have an overlock machine, a zigzag stitch will work fine.

  • Step 2: Fold and Top Stitch

    • Fold the top of the sleeve down so that the V-shaped cutout matches on both sides.

    • Pin along the edge.

    • Do a topstitch close to the edge to secure the fold. Leave enough room for the elastic.

Step 3: Insert Elastic

  • Cut a piece of elastic about 2.5 to 3 inches shorter than the top of the sleeve.

  • Use an elastic turner or safety pin to thread the elastic through the casing formed by the topstitch.

  • Pin one end of the elastic at the edge.

  • Pull the other end through until it reaches the opposite edge.

  • Pin the second end of the elastic.

Step 4: Secure Elastic

  • Do a small stitch on both ends of the elastic casing to secure the elastic in place. This prevents the elastic from slipping inside the casing.

Step 5: Sew Side Seam

  • Fold the sleeve in half with right sides facing.

  • Pin and stitch the side seam, starting from the bottom and going up to the top where the elastic is inserted.

  • Overlock or zigzag the seam allowance to finish it.

Step 6: Attach Flounce

  • If you cut the flounce on the fold, it should be a full circle with a center point marked.

  • Align the center point of the flounce with the center point of the bottom of the sleeve.

  • With right sides facing, start pinning the flounce to the bottom of the sleeve. You may need to turn the sleeve inside out to access the entire opening.

  • Pin all the way around.

Step 7: Stitch Flounce

  • Stitch along the pinned line to attach the flounce to the bottom of the sleeve.

  • Overlock or finish the seam allowance.

Step 8: Hem the Bottom

  • Hem the bottom of the flounce using your preferred hemming method.

Your Nova Sleeve is now complete and ready to be sewn into your garment. Adjust the steps as needed based on your pattern and preferences.

Assembling the Astra Sleeve

Step 1: Prepare the Lower Overlay

  • Both the Lower Overlay and the Regular Sleeve should have a notch indicating the opening for a slit. Match up the notches, as these pieces will overlay each other.

  • Cut one Lower Overlay for each sleeve.

  • Step 2: Gather Stitch on Lower Overlay

    • Create a gather stitch at the top and bottom of the Lower Overlay. Use a 1/4-inch seam allowance and gather the fabric.

Step 3: Gather the Top and Bottom Lengths

  • Gather the top length to match the top of the Regular Sleeve.

  • Gather the bottom length to match the bottom of the Regular Sleeve.

Step 4: Stitch Lower Overlay to the Sleeve

  • With right sides facing, align the gathered Lower Overlay with the Regular Sleeve, matching the top and bottom lengths. at the black line on the pattern.

  • Pin and stitch along the top, using a guide like the edge of your sewing foot.

  • Overlock or finish the seam allowance.

Step 5: Attaching the overlay to the bottom of the sleeve

  • pin the bottom of the overlay to the bottom of the sleeve, they should match in length after gathering

  • now fold the excess fabric, and pinch. you’ll create a small pleat that will fold towards the top of the sleeve. now pin in place.

  • repeat this to the other side as well.

Step 6: Creating the Cuff

  • overlock, or hem 3 edges of your ruffle, leaving one long side unhemed.

  • create a gather stitch on the top of that unhemmed ruffle, and gather to the length of the cuff, minus 1”… (there will be 1/2” seam allowance es left on the sides of the cuff for assembling.

Step 7: Assembling the cuff

  • Pin the gathered ruffle to one side of the long sides of the cuff , with the ruffle facing inward.

  • Sandwich the ruffle between the two layers of the Cuff.

  • Pin and stitch the sides and top of the Cuff.

Step 8:

  • Trim away half of the seam allowance.

  • Turn the cuff right side out.

Step 7: Sew Slit for Cuff Opening

  • overlock or zigzag the sides of the sleeve.

  • fold the sleeve in half with right sides facing, pinning from the underarm down to the notch at the bottom of the sleeve, which indicates the start of the sleeve slit.

  • now stitch from the underarm to the notch, backstitching at the notch.

  • Fold back the fabric on each side of the slit by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

  • Topstitch along the slit to secure.

Step 8: Attach Cuff to Sleeve

  • With right sides facing, pin one side of the Cuff to the bottom of the sleeve.

  • Stitch along the pinned line only catching one side of the cuff as we will be hand stitching the other side closed.

    .

Step 9: Finish Cuff Seam

  • Push the seam allowance inside the sleeve and pin.

  • Hand-sew the seam allowance in place for a clean finish.

Step 10: Add Hook and Eye Closure

  • Attach a hook and eye closure near the cuff opening for functionality.

Step 11: Prepare and Attach Shoulder Ruffle

  • Hem the top and bottom edges of the Shoulder Ruffle.

  • Create a gather stitch along the top edge.

  • Gather the Ruffle to the desired length.

  • Pin the Ruffle to the sleeve, following the curve and matching the notches.

  • Topstitch along the gather line to secure the Ruffle.

Assembling the Altair Sleeve

Step 1: Hem the Flounces

  • Hem the bottom edge of each flounce. You can use a rolled hem, fold-up hem, or any preferred hemming method.

Step 2: Attach Top Flounce to Top Sleeve

  • Pin the top flounce to the top of the sleeve with right sides facing. Pin along the entire top edge.

  • Stitch the top flounce to the top sleeve.

Step 3: Attach Middle Flounce to Lower Sleeve

  • Pin the middle flounce to the top of the lower sleeve.

  • Stitch the middle flounce to the lower sleeve.

  • Finish the seam by overlocking or zigzagging the edges.

Step 4: Attach Lower Flounce to Bottom Sleeve

  • Pin the lower flounce to the top of the lower sleeve.

  • Stitch the lower flounce to the lower sleeve.

  • Finish the seam by overlocking or zigzagging the edges.

Step 5: Attach Lower Sleeve to Top Sleeve

  • With right sides facing, pin the seam of the lower sleeve to the bottom of the top sleeve.

  • Stitch this seam, ensuring the flounces are not caught in the seam.

Step 6: Pin and Stitch the Sides

  • Pin the sides of the Altair sleeve, making sure all layers are even.

  • Stitch the sides together.

Step 7: Finish the Seams

  • Overlock or zigzag the edges of the seams to finish them.

Step 8: Assemble the Altair Sleeve

  • Fold everything together, pinning the layers evenly.

  • Stitch the sleeve together, starting from the top and going all the way down.

  • Finish the seam.

Step 9: Sew into Garment

  • If you're sewing the Altair Sleeve into a garment, follow the pattern instructions for attaching the sleeve to the bodice or garment. This may involve sewing the cap first and then the underarm.

Assembling the Elara Sleeve

Step 1: Prepare the Ruffle

  • If you cut four ruffles, use two for one sleeve. Pin one end of the ruffle with right sides facing.

  • Stitch the pinned end and overlock or finish the seam. Press it open.

Step 2: Hem and Gather the Ruffle

  • Hem one side of the ruffle using your preferred method.

  • On the opposite side, create a gather stitch. If making a muslin mockup, you can skip hemming.

Step 3: Attach Ruffle to Sleeve

  • Align the gather stitch side of the ruffle with the placement line on the sleeve.

  • Pin the ruffle to the sleeve, ensuring it's evenly distributed.

  • Stitch the ruffle, following the placement line. Space out gathers as needed.

Step 4: Create Casing for Elastic

  • Fold the sleeve with right sides facing.

  • Pin along the edge, enclosing the ruffle in the seam.

  • Stitch along the edge, creating a casing for the elastic.

Step 5: Insert Elastic

  • Measure your wrist and cut elastic accordingly, adding a little extra for comfort.

  • Using a safety pin or elastic turner, thread the elastic through the casing.

  • Pin the elastic at both ends to avoid it getting lost inside.

  • Pull the ruffle down on both sides of the sleeve.

Step 6: Stitch the Sleeve

  • Fold the sleeve in half with right sides facing.

  • Pin the sides of the sleeve, including the ruffled section and the section below it.

  • Stitch the pinned sides together.

  • Overlock or zigzag the edges to finish the seams.

Step 7: Final Touches

  • Hem the bottom of the sleeve.

  • Steam or press the ruffle to fall flat.

  • Your Elara sleeve is now finished and ready to be sewn into the garment.

If you find yourself having questions along the way, please feel free to email us at deatheragedesigns@gmail.com

Happy Sewing!

-Gunnar Deatherage